Out of Office: Dallas Fashion Exhibitions - Neiman Marcus
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Out of Office: Dallas Fashion Exhibitions

Anna Fialho Byers

May 26, 2016

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Austrian-born designer Helmut Lang retired from his namesake fashion label more than a decade ago, but he’s hardly been sitting around idle. Rather, he’s been busy proving what the fashion world has always known: Art and fashion go hand in hand. In a seamless transition, the enigmatic modernist traded design atelier for Long Island artist’s studio and catwalk for galleries from New York to Paris to Moscow. This spring, the Dallas Contemporary gives Lang a Texas-size welcome with his first U.S. solo show, Burry, an exhibition of recent sculpture using sheepskin transformed by tar.

Irving Penn Irving Penn: In a Cracked Mirror (A), New York, 1986, printed 1990 Platinum print Overall: 20 1/2 x 19 3/4 in. (52.1 x 50.2 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Promised gift of The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn
Irving Penn: In a Cracked Mirror (A), New York, 1986, printed 1990
Platinum print
Overall: 20 1/2 x 19 3/4 in. (52.1 x 50.2 cm)
Smithsonian American Art Museum, Promised gift of
The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation

The exhibition is a natural evolution of Lang’s studio practice, “which has focused on materials and processes in a post-conceptual art world for the past ten years,” says Dallas Contemporary director Peter Doroshenko. “The various sculptural works combine natural materials, history of art, and personal storytelling.” Burry continues at the Dallas Contemporary (dallascontemporary.org) through Aug. 21.

Irving Penn Girl Behind Bottle (Jean Patchett), New York, 1949, printed 1978 Platinum-palladium print Overall: 18 5/8 x 17 7/8 in. (47.2 x 45.4 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of the artist. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn
Girl Behind Bottle (Jean Patchett), New York, 1949, printed 1978 Platinum-palladium print
Overall: 18 5/8 x 17 7/8 in. (47.2 x 45.4 cm)
Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of the artist.
Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation

Fashion and art meet in an altogether different manner in Irving Penn: Beyond Beauty, organized by the Smithsonian American Art Museum and making the first stop of a five-city tour at the Dallas Museum of Art (dma.org). One of the most significant photographers of the 20th century, Penn is best known for the iconic images — portraits, still lifes, surrealistic takes on fashion and beauty — created for Vogue starting in the late 1940s. “He brought a new angle to any subject he approached, from portraiture all the way to his series of cigarettes and street materials,” says presenting curator Sue Canterbury. “He could pull beauty out of even the most unlikely of subjects.”

Irving Penn Red Rooster, New York, 2003, printed 2007 Inkjet print Overall: 20 1/2 x 17 in. (52 x 43.18 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn
Red Rooster, New York, 2003, printed 2007
Inkjet print
Overall: 20 1/2 x 17 in. (52 x 43.18 cm)
Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of
The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation

Beyond Beauty is the first retrospective of Penn’s work in nearly 20 years and showcases 140 images spanning his 70-year career, including a number of previously unseen images. Super-8mm films of Penn at work in Morocco were shot by his wife and frequent model Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn. The exhibition continues at the DMA through Aug. 14., then moves to the Lunder Arts Center at Lesley University in Cambridge, Mass. (Sept. 12–Nov. 13); the Frist Center for the Visual Arts in Nashville (Feb. 24–May 29, 2017); the Frick Art & Historical Center in Pittsburgh (June 17–Sept. 10, 2017); and the Wichita Art Museum in Wichita, Kansas (Sept. 30, 2017–Jan. 7, 2018).

Irving Penn Beauty Shop, New York, 1949, printed 2001 Gelatin silver print Overall: 10 1/2 x 10 3/8 in. (26.67 x 26.35 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Promised gift of The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn
Beauty Shop, New York, 1949, printed 2001
Gelatin silver print
Overall: 10 1/2 x 10 3/8 in. (26.67 x 26.35 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Promised gift of
The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn Bedside Lamp, New York, 2006 Inkjet print Overall: 29 x 22 1/2 in. (73.7 x 57.2 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn
Bedside Lamp, New York, 2006
Inkjet print
Overall: 29 x 22 1/2 in. (73.7 x 57.2 cm)
Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of
The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn Bee, New York, 1995, printed 2001 Chromogenic print Overall: 21 1/2 x 24 in. (54.6 x 61.0 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Promised gift of Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn
Bee, New York, 1995, printed 2001
Chromogenic print
Overall: 21 1/2 x 24 in. (54.6 x 61.0 cm)
Smithsonian American Art Museum, Promised gift of
Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn Chicks in a Jar, Mexico, 1942, printed 1983 Silver print Overall: 13 3/4 x 10 3/4 in. (34.9 x 27.3 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Promised gift of The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn
Chicks in a Jar, Mexico, 1942, printed 1983
Silver print
Overall: 13 3/4 x 10 3/4 in. (34.9 x 27.3 cm)
Smithsonian American Art Museum, Promised gift of
The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn Frozen Foods, New York, 1977, printed 1984 Dye transfer print Overall: 23 1/8 x 18 in. (58.7 x 45.7 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn
Frozen Foods, New York, 1977, printed 1984
Dye transfer print
Overall: 23 1/8 x 18 in. (58.7 x 45.7 cm)
Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of
The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn Head in Ice, New York, 2002, printed 2003 Chromogenic print Overall: 30 x 24 1/4 in. (76.2 x 61.6 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © Condé Nast
Irving Penn
Head in Ice, New York, 2002, printed 2003 Chromogenic print
Overall: 30 x 24 1/4 in. (76.2 x 61.6 cm)
Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of
The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © Condé Nast
Irving Penn Issey Miyake Fashion: White and Black, New York, 1990, printed 1992 Gelatin silver print Overall: 15 x 14 3/4 in. (38.1 x 37.47 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn
Issey Miyake Fashion: White and Black, New York, 1990, printed 1992
Gelatin silver print
Overall: 15 x 14 3/4 in. (38.1 x 37.47 cm)
Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of
The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn Kerchief Glove (Dior), Paris, 1950, printed 1984 Silver print Overall: 15 1/4 x 15 3/8 in. (38.7 x 39.1 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Promised gift of The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © Condé Nast
Irving Penn
Kerchief Glove (Dior), Paris, 1950, printed 1984
Silver print
Overall: 15 1/4 x 15 3/8 in. (38.7 x 39.1 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Promised gift of The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © Condé Nast
Irving Penn Leontyne Price, New York, 1961 Gelatin silver print Overall: 15 5/8 x 15 5/8 in. (39.7 x 39.7 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © Condé Nast
Irving Penn
Leontyne Price, New York, 1961
Gelatin silver print
Overall: 15 5/8 x 15 5/8 in. (39.7 x 39.7 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of
The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © Condé Nast
Irving Penn Mouth (for L’Oréal), New York, 1986, printed 1992 Dye transfer print Overall: 18 1/2 x 18 1/4 in. (47.0 x 46.4 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, gift of The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn
Mouth (for L’Oréal), New York, 1986, printed 1992
Dye transfer print
Overall: 18 1/2 x 18 1/4 in. (47.0 x 46.4 cm)
Smithsonian American Art Museum, gift of The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn Mud Glove, New York, 1975, printed 1976 Platinum-palladium print Overall: 29 3/4 x 22 1/4 in. (75.57 x 56.52 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of the artist. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn
Mud Glove, New York, 1975, printed 1976 Platinum-palladium print
Overall: 29 3/4 x 22 1/4 in. (75.57 x 56.52 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of the artist. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn Nude No. 58, New York, about 1949–1950, printed 1976 Platinum-palladium print Overall: 18 3/4 x 18 in. (47.6 x 45.7 cm.) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of the artist. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn
Nude No. 58, New York, about 1949–1950, printed 1976 Platinum-palladium print
Overall: 18 3/4 x 18 in. (47.6 x 45.7 cm.)
Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of the artist. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn Red Rooster, New York, 2003, printed 2007 Inkjet print Overall: 20 1/2 x 17 in. (52 x 43.18 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn
Red Rooster, New York, 2003, printed 2007
Inkjet print
Overall: 20 1/2 x 17 in. (52 x 43.18 cm)
Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of
The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn Salvador Dali, New York, 1947 Gelatin silver print Overall: 9 7/8 x 7 7/8 in. (25.1 x 20.1 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of the artist. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn
Salvador Dali, New York, 1947
Gelatin silver print
Overall: 9 7/8 x 7 7/8 in. (25.1 x 20.1 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of the artist. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn Sitting Enga Woman, New Guinea, 1970, printed 1986 Platinum-palladium print Overall: 19 5/8 x 19 3/8 in. (49.8 x 49.2 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of the artist. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn
Sitting Enga Woman, New Guinea, 1970, printed 1986 Platinum-palladium print
Overall: 19 5/8 x 19 3/8 in. (49.8 x 49.2 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of the artist. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn Ball Dress by Olivier Theyskens for Nina Ricci, New York, 2007 Silver print Overall: 19 x 19 in. (48.3 x 48.3 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © Condé Nast
Irving Penn
Ball Dress by Olivier Theyskens for Nina Ricci, New York, 2007 Silver print
Overall: 19 x 19 in. (48.3 x 48.3 cm)
Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of
The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © Condé Nast
Irving Penn Truman Capote, New York, 1979, printed 1983 Silver print Overall: 10 3/8 x 10 3/8 in. (26.4 x 26.4 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn
Truman Capote, New York, 1979, printed 1983
Silver print
Overall: 10 3/8 x 10 3/8 in. (26.4 x 26.4 cm)
Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of
The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn Woman in Moroccan Palace (Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn), Marrakech, 1951, printed 1969 Platinum-palladium/platinum-iridium print Overall: 19 5/8 x 19 1/2 in. (49.9 x 49.7 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of the artist. Copyright © Condé Nast
Irving Penn
Woman in Moroccan Palace (Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn), Marrakech, 1951, printed 1969 Platinum-palladium/platinum-iridium print
Overall: 19 5/8 x 19 1/2 in. (49.9 x 49.7 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of the artist. Copyright © Condé Nast
Irving Penn Young Boy, Pause Pause, American South, 1941, printed 2001 Gelatin silver print Overall: 11 x 10 1/2 in. (27.94 x 26.67 cm) Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation
Irving Penn
Young Boy, Pause Pause, American South, 1941, printed 2001 Gelatin silver print
Overall: 11 x 10 1/2 in. (27.94 x 26.67 cm)
Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of
The Irving Penn Foundation. Copyright © The Irving Penn Foundation

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