Spring 2015 Trends
February 11, 2015
The Report: Key pieces for Spring 2015.
The New Bohemian
It’s unanimous: From New York to London, from Milan to Paris, designers have declared a spring season brimming with romanticism, extoicism, and escapism. The New Bohemian imbues the gypsy spirit, while finding influence and inspiration from high fashion for a new luxe boho sensibility.
Like me, designers are obsessed with the free-spirited sensuality that defined the ’70s, an era of long, languid silhouettes, artisan details, and rich, saturated Spice-Market Colors. Ruffles and flounces swirl around the body, often decorated with artisanal embroidery, patchwork and crochet, summoning images of dancing gypsies. Hemlines on skirts and dresses fall to midi and maxi lengths, which are best worn with chic flat sandals. If legs are your best asset, rise to the thigh in micro minis paired with platforms. (Yes, platforms are back and in abundance.) Flared pants see a revival. Tunic top trousers. Distressed denim imparts well-traveled character. The jumpsuit makes a welcome return. Suede redefines leather dressing, taking on a Summer of Love vibe, while looking thoroughly modern and relevant.
As for the rules, there aren’t any. At its core, the bohemian aesthetic is about freedom – so express yourself as only you can.
A frenzy of Fringe swished down every runway, embellishing bags, swinging from shoes, and decorating ready-to-wear. At the New York shows, Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez grabbed my attention with their colbalt blue, crocheted-fringe dress – one of my favorite fringed looks. Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent continues the love with a suede fringe bag that fits in your hand like a glove, or can hang from your shoulder by a shiny slender chain.
Sun-baked shades of cayenne, paprika, saffron and sage compose spring’s most intriguing color palette. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, the dynamic design duo at Valentino, distilled their boho vision as elegant exoticism, turning out mixed-patterened maxi and mini dresses in zesty shades. Jason Wu showed off his spicy side in fluid, sequined cocktail dresses in shades of paprika and sage (all the makings for a hot night on the town.) Warm and earthy, Spice-Market Colors look magnificent in a singular color statement, mixed together or as a complement to this season’s neutrals.
Long, Layered Necklaces
lavish Long, Layered Necklaces are not only a necessity, but key to perfecting your pretty-peasant look. Strings of turquoise, coral, and shimmering beads lend a rugged-meets-refined glamour to spring’s New Bohemian romance.
Subtle, supple, and in every shade – say yes to summer suede. Piece and patchworked, Derek Lam’s lightweight, lilac suede topper and matching dress are quintessentially ’70s. Summer suede was featured on the Chanel runway in a soft shade of sage. Designer Haider Ackermann paired satin with suede for a sensual sophistication.
Given the return of midi and maxi lengths, asymmetrical hemlines and the profusion of ruffles and flounces, your spring wardrobe requires the right foundation. The flat sandal satisfies the desire for style and ease. I’m crazy for Valentino’s roman sandal, gilded with gifts from the sea. Both Isabel Marant and Stella McCartney created ankle-wrapping flat sandals – marvelous companions for any fashion-loving bohemian.
On the lighter side, shades from bright white to head-to-toe look, combine tones, or pair white with pale colors. Chloe Creative Director Clare Waight Keller dreamed up a decadent white lace dress confection – short, drop-waisted and suspended from delicate spaghetti straps. White becomes a canvas for color at Roland Mouret, blurring crisp white with the palest blue.
The Bucket Bag
Not too big, not too small, not too structured, not too soft – the Bucket Bag is just right now. Frida Gianna took inspiration from the Gucci archives with her bucket bag, which celebrates the swagger of the ’70s with its signature red-and-green canvas strap. For more great bucket bags, look to Proenza Schouler, Saint Laurent, and Loewe.
Mix, Don’t Match
This Springm the melange of prints looks freshest when mixed rather than matched. Flowers and stripes dance with dots and tie-dye. And we can’t forget Gingham and animal prints. Designers have pieced, collaged and patched together the season’s knockout cast of patterns and prints. For Céline, Phoebe Philo’s ’70s-musing exit utilitized two florals of differing scales: The smaller pattern forms a one-shoulder, asymmetrical, flounced dress that tops a jumpsuit created in the larger motif. Dries Van Noten demonstrated his mastery for pattern mixing in a collection that left everyone in awe.